Tips and Techniques for Selling Your Shopsmith Tools

As much as it pains me, some folks just don’t need their tools. Perhaps you’ve outgrown them, or maybe you inherited them and need the value they represent more than their functionality. That’s OK. So what do you say we do everything we can to get you them most money for your tools? Since 1987 I have sold hundreds of Shopsmith tools, and I’ve also bought more than my fair share, and in this blog I’ve written about my experiences in order to help connect buyers and sellers of Shopsmith tools. Here are of few tips to help you accomplish your goals…

• My first tip is that when you are through reading this post that you take a look at my post titled “Tips and Techniques for Buying Shopsmith Tools”. In it I explain to buyers what they should do to make sure that they are confident and totally satisfied with their tool purchase. Knowing the tips that I share with them will give you some good ideas about what you need to do as a fair and honorable tool seller. In the end you’ll know your tool will go to a good home, and that you’ll be able to sleep soundly knowing that they are not going to fall into “buyers remorse”, and perhaps even causing you headaches by using eBay’s feedback to retaliate or by embroiling you in a needless Paypal dispute.
  

• Take a look at the individual posts relating to the tools you are selling to make sure you know about the history of that tool. Shopsmith tools have gone through a lot of change over the years, and you need to know the details to make sure that the tool you think you are selling is in fact the tool you have to sell.

• If you are selling the tool online make sure that the photos are clear and cover every detail you can. Choose a well-lit area to take the photos, and when in doubt, add another light.
  

• Don’t leave the buyer to assume anything! In my “Buying a Suit on eBay” Blog (seriously!) I mention that many suits today are made in China by people who don’t read English. The English labels inside a suits lining may say “Wool“ or “100% Silk“, but that doesn’t mean that the suit is made of wool or silk! There is a label in a suit that must disclose the country of origin and the actual material, but the “show labels” can say anything you want! Back to tools. If a prospective buyer sees a “Forest Woodworker II” carbide saw blade on a Shopsmith saw arbor hanging on the pegboard behind your Mark V in the photo in the eBay listing, they may believe that it is included with the Mark V. Is it? Isn’t it? Make sure that you include a COMPLETE listing of all items which are included in the listing; and if something makes its way into the photo that shouldn’t be there, either edit it out of the picture using Microsoft Paint, or state clearly something like: “Please note that the blade shown on the wall in the photo is NOT included in this auction.”. If something is included in the listing but not shown in your photo, I highly recommend that you consider taking another photo, or make sure that you note this prominently in your ad. Say something clever like “There is an awesome 8 Gallon Ingersoll Rand Model SS3J2-WB air compressor included with this Shopsmith Pro Planer; but it was too shy to be photographed with the planer.”
  

• Offer to send additional photos upon request. Buyers understand that eBay charges for extra photos and that you may have additional photos. Rather than waiting for them to ask, offer this extra touch up front. The other advantage is you will now have their email address, so you can send them a friendly reminder the day before you auction ends! (This may not be available now due to changes in the eBay rules. Feel free to comment if you know more about this.)
  

• All major Shopsmith tools have serial numbers or date codes on them. If your tool is a Shopsmith Mark V you can visit Shopsmith’s web site and find the birth date of the tool. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm On the Mark V the serial number is located on the left side of the Headstock (Power Plant), on the vent plate that surounds the lower drive shaft or on a Red/White Sticker. Note that the serial #’s were switched to a date code in 1988. If your tool is another Shopsmith tool you can either email or call Shopsmith’s customer service. Ask for Linda and tell her Scott Markwood says “Hey”.

• Because the color of Shopsmith tools MAY indicate the age of the tool, make sure your mention if the tool has been repainted. The fact that it’s been re-touched or repainted isn’t a bad thing; but changing the color to mimic a newer production model, then not disclosing this fact is tantamount to fraud.
  

• I suggest to Mark V buyers that they ask the seller to confirm that the speed dial turns freely and that there is no bearing noise. To do this you want to make sure that the headstock isn’t coupled to a bandsaw or any other SPT tool, and make sure that the tool is running before you turn the speed dial. Once you confirm that all is in order, mention in your listing what you learned. Say something like: “We cycled the Mark V’s speed dial through the entire speed range, and no unusual noises or vibrations were observed.” This may be a great time to state the obvious to the buyers with a disclaimer that states “Please keep in mind that though this tool has given faithful service all these years with no maintenance problems, I am not a tool expert, electrician or mechanic, and this is a 25 year old tool. There may be unknown conditions that are not warranted by me or the manufacturer.”

• The Mark V has been manufactured by no less than five companies, so provide either a photo of the name plate from the headstock or at the very least the serial number and the other text from the name plate.
  

• There have been several versions of the Shopsmith 5-in-1 tools, including the 10e, the 10er, the Mark I, II, V, 7 and VII. There has NEVER been a Mark IV, though the Mark V is regularly listed as a Mark 4 on eBay. The Mark V has been made in several models with distinct differences. There has been a Mark V model 500, 505, 510 and 520, and you can find more information about this in our Mark V post within this blog.

• If you’ve added any upgrades to the tool, mention them! This is important because some of the older tools have undesirable features that you may have addressed with an upgrade or retrofit. For example, many older Mark V’s have been upgraded with a new two bearing quill, and many Shopsmith bandsaws have been retrofitted with ball bearing blade guides. Describe what the upgrade does, and give a testimonial while you’re at it. Say something like: “The original bronze bushing guides were like fingers on a chalkboard and were in constant need of lubrication. Since upgrading to the new ball bearings the noise is gone and the sealed bearings require zero maintenance.” What if your tool has no upgrades? Say something in your listing like: “The Shopsmith 11” Bandsaw has continued to evolve since its introduction, and unlike so many companies, Shopsmith never leaves their older tool owners behind. All upgrades since this bandsaw was produced are retrofitable to this classic saw and are readily available from Shopsmith.”

• How will you ship the tool? Will you ship it assembled, partially disassembled or totally disassembled? Include photos or better yet a video of the disassembly process and make sure that all loose parts, set screws, etc. are placed in well labeled Zip-Loc bags. The Mark V is a very easy tool to break-down and reassemble, so don’t let this scare you off. It the tool is to be shipped assembled I would still suggest that you remove the legs. They are held in place with fives screws each, and with them removed the tool will ship much more compactly (saving you or the buyer money) and the tool will be less likely to become damaged due to toppling as the center of gravity will drop dramatically.
  

• Before listing your item, do a quick Completed Auction Search of similar items. This will let you know what the current going rate is for that item, and unless there is something special about your deal, your location or your copywriting skills, use the going rate as a rule of thumb for establishing your opening bid.
  

• That reminds me to mention that buyers HATE reserves! If you know you must have $2000 for your tools or else you are going to give it to your son-in-law, then start your auction with $1997 as the opening price. At least that way potential buyers know where they stand, and only serious bidders will jump into the fray. Personally I’m a little more confident in my ad writing abilities, and I’m a bit of a gambler, so I would start the auction at $997 or $1447.
  

• Don’t mess around with 10 day listings. They cost you more, and after three days you are still left with a seven day auction! Buyers are looking for instant gratification, and seven days is long enough.
  

• Consider a “Buy It Now” price. This will cost you a bit more, but it will have a valuable psychological effect on the bidders. If you are reasonable in your asking price, and assuming that someone didn’t win that last Shopsmith Mark VII that they’ve been dreaming of, they just might take it off your hands right away and not risk missing out to a sniper. Likewise, the “Buy It Now” price serves as a benchmark for potential buyers who may not know the going rate of your tool.
  

• If your goal is to make the most money you possibly can for you tools, please note that tool prices are seasonal because woodworking is seasonal. Woodworkers are active hobbyists and as such are in their gardens, on their Jet Skis and climbing rocks during the Spring and Summer. That means you will have fewer buyers competing for your items if you can wait to sell them in the Fall and Winter.
  

• Feel free to send me your ads, and I’ll be happy to offer tips and suggestions. I’ll even post them on my blog at no charge.
  

• Lastly, consider adding a link to our “Tips and Techniques for Buying Shopsmith Tools” (linked above) within your eBay listing. This will show that you have nothing to hide, and that you are looking out for their best interests. They might find it in a Google search anyway, so you might as well be the one to offer a good tip.

Good luck! Scott

Tips and Techniques for Buying Shopsmith Tools

Tips and Techniques for Buying Shopsmith Tools

You are at an exciting place in your woodworking hobby; you’ve been sold on Shopsmith tools and now you’re looking for the best way to add them to your shop. I’ve written about my own experiences, so I’ll try not to bore you any more than totally necessary…

• My first tip is that when you are through reading this post that you take a look at my post titled “Tips and Techniques for Selling Your Shopsmith Tools”. In it I explain to sellers what I would do in order to get you to part with as much of your money as possible! Knowing this will give you some good ideas about what to look for, and what I would consider fair and honorable behavior when selling tools.
• Take a look at the individual posts relating to the tools you are interested in buying to make sure you know about the history of that tool. Shopsmith tools have gone through a lot of change over the years, and you need to know the details to make sure that the tool you think you are buying is in fact the tool you get.
• If you are buying the tool online make sure that the photos are clear and cover every detail that concerns you.
• Don’t assume anything! I write in my “Buying a Suit on eBay” Blog (seriously!) that many suits today are made in China by people who don’t read English. The English labels inside a suits lining may say “Wool“ or “100% Silk“, but that doesn’t mean that the suit is made of wool or silk! There is a label in a suit that must disclose the country of origin and the actual material, but the “show labels” can say anything you want! Back to tools. Just because you see a “Forest Woodworker II” carbide saw blade on a Shopsmith saw arbor hanging on the pegboard behind the Mark V in the photo in the eBay listing; that doesn’t mean it’s included with the Mark V. What should you do? Make a list of all the items you see in the photos, then read slowly through the listing and check-off the items from your list. If something on your list but not in the description, send a message to the seller and ask of the item is included in the sale. If something is listed but not shown, ask if they can email you a photo of the item. There may be a reason why they didn’t show the bandsaw… because it fell off the shelf and has a huge crack in the casting! This tip has saved me so much money, and has even won me some great items that were not noticed by buyers who just look at the photos.
• If the serial number of all the tools are not shown in the listing, write the seller and ask for them. With the numbers in hand visit Shopsmith’s web site and find the birth date of the tool. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm On the Mark V the serial number is located on the left side of the Headstock (Power Plant), on the vent plate or on a Red/White Sticker. Note that the serial #’s were switched to a date code in 1988.
• The color of the tool MAY indicate the age of the tool. The Original Shopsmith 10er’s was gray. The original Mark V of 1954 was two-tone green. (Known among Shopsmithers as “Greenies”) This was changed to two-tone brown (or gold) in 1960 and so on. Again, read the post for the individual tool that you are shopping for. The point is if you are looking at a grey Mark V you may be looking at a Mark V from the 1960’s, or 70’s, or 80’s, or 90’s or 00’s or maybe it’s a Greenie with a new grey paint job! The only way to know for sure is to check the serial # or to ask the seller if the paint job is original. I actually like the color of the Greenies and the Gold Anniversary Mark V, but I loathe Mark V’s with non-standard paint jobs because they always look like Chinese knock-offs to me.
• Ask the seller to confirm that the speed dial turns freely and that there is no bearing noise. If they aren’t sure, as them to turn the Mark V on and run the speed up to fast, then back down to slow and to report their findings back to you. If they are selling the tool for a friend, or if it’s a tool they inherited let them know that they want to make sure that the headstock isn’t coupled to the bandsaw or any other SPT tool, and that they make sure that the tool is running while they are turning the speed dial. Feel free to suggest that they view this and the Sellers post mentioned above.
• The Mark V has been manufactured by no less than five companies, so ask for either a photo of the name plate or at the very least the serial number and the other text on the name plate.
• There have been several versions of the Shopsmith 5-in-1 tools, including the 10e, the 10er, the Mark I, II, V, 7 and VII. There has NEVER been a Mark IV, though the Mark V is regularly listed as a Mark 4 on eBay. I think sellers must know that the tool they own is an older unit, so it must be the model before the current Mark V. Now, the Mark V has been made in several models with distinct differences. There has been a Mark V model 500, 505, 510 and 520.
• Ask the seller if they’ve added any upgrades to the tool. This is important if the tools age would indicate the presence of undesirable features. For example, many older Mark V’s have been upgraded with a new two bearing quill. Without this newer feature the drill press will have more side-play, and faceplate turnings will tend to grab and chatter.
• How will the seller ship the tool? Will it ship assembled or will they partially disassemble it? If so ask them to include photos or better yet a video of the disassembly process and to make sure that all loose parts, set screws, etc. are placed in well labeled Zip-Loc bags. The Mark V is a very easy tool to break-down and reassemble, so don’t let this scare you off. It the tool is to be shipped assembled I would still suggest that the seller remove the legs. They are held in place with five screws each, and with them removed the tool will ship much more compactly (saving you money) and the tool will be less likely to become damaged due to toppling as the center of gravity will drop dramatically.
• Never fall in love with something that can’t love you back. Just because you think a tool is a great find doesn’t make it worth all the money in the world. Set your top price and stick to it. Rather than sitting around waiting to snipe at the end of the auction, set your top bit from the get-go. Should someone outbid you let it go. That said, don’t bid in even numbers. A top bid of $10 will always be beaten by an earlier bit of $10.01. I tend to bid 1.0507 times my pre-established top price. That means if my top price is $100, I’ll bit $105.07, or something like that. Again, I’ll beat all the folks who try to snipe at the last minute with a $100 or $101 last minute bid.
• Before you bid, make sure that there isn’t an identical tool for sale elsewhere on eBay. Nothing sucks worse than entering a bid only then to notice the identical tool selling for half the price several auctions down the page.
• Before placing that bid do a quick Completed Auction Search of the item. This will let you know what the current going rate is for that item, and unless there is something special about the deal such as the location or additional items included in the auction, use the going rate as a rule of thumb for establishing your top bid.
• That last tip reminds me of one of the most valuable tips on this post. (see, there’s a reason you read this far!) Tool prices are seasonal because woodworking is seasonal. Woodworkers are active hobbyists and as such are in their gardens, on their Jet Skis and climbing rocks during the Spring and Summer. That means you will have fewer competitors if you can plan your purchases and buy in the Spring and Summer.
• Use the links on this blog to find hidden Shopsmith tools. I’ve been searching for, buying and selling Shopsmith tools on eBay since 1998, and I’ve gotten pretty good at sorting through the SPAM that clogs the tool category. eBay’s own analytics have proven that you have a stronger than normal likelihood of winning the bid when you go from my links to tools on eBay. Cool huh? Good luck, and let me know how your tool purchase goes. Scott

Shopsmith Mark II (Mark 2) Information, Review and History

The Mark II was a step away from the costly Mark V, and was almost a "Back to the Future" move that borrowed some of the striped-down ideas used in the 10ER. Lots of stamped steel and aluminum was used, and the base "tubes" are actually painted hardwood. The feature that fools the casual Shopsmith historian is the crank on the front of the headstock. What do you think it's for? No, it's not a variable speed crank like the one found on the Mark V and Mark VII. It simply elevates the motor a bit so the user can manually move the drive belt from pulley to pulley. This tool was sold mostly through hardware stores and was marketed with a variavle speed feature under the name PowerKraft by Montgomery Wards. 

Click here for Shopsmith Mark II's For Sale (Very light activity)

Click the pictures below for a great article on the Shopsmith Mark 2.

Did you know you can convert your Shopsmith Mark 2 into a Mark VII? (Sort of)

Here's an interesting article that shows how to make a base for a Mark II in order to make it do some of the tricks of a Mark 7. One additional trick that even the Mark VII couldn't do is this base allows you to raise the Mark 2 to make turning more comfortable. I think it's a bit ugly, but I like it. As usual, click the thumbnail pis to Biggie-Size them.